How to Have a Feliz Navidad…Chapin Style

Recipe for a Chapin (Guatemalan) Christmas:

-One billion tamales

-Ponche (a hot Guatemalan beverage that consists of pineapple, papaya, banana, raisins, cloves, cinnamon, water)

-Every type of firework you can imagine (and so very illegal in the United States!)

-Loud Music, preferably Banda or Marimba

-Mandatory prayer to baby Jesus from each family member

-2 hour mass (if not more…!)

-Angelitos (marshmallows)

-Bonfire in the house (yes, IN the house) or yard if you have one…

-Uvas (grapes)

-Manzanas (Apples)

-Nativity scene in your house (does not have to have people, can use muppets, dolls, or other figurines—Barney is especially popular—but a Baby Jesus figurine is mandatory)

and…voila!

For those of you who know me or were in my Peace Corps Spanish class, you will know that “en realidad, yo no celebro Navidad” (I don’t celebrate Christmas) (I said this to my Spanish teacher after he asked me what I did for Christmas like the first week of classes. The expression on his face after I said this was priceless…he looked like a 5 year old who was just told that there, indeed, is no Santa…Sorry to those of you reading this who previously believed in Santa…oops, my bad…)

However, this year I got to experience a very Guatemalan Xmas. My host family from my training town invited me to return to their home and celebrate Navidad with them, and I have to say it felt awesome to be so included in such an intimate family gathering. Let me first say that I love, love, LOVE my training town host family. I actually feel like they are my real family, which is a great feeling to have when you are so far away from home and your family. They are loving, warm, and gracious, and they treat me like I am one of their own and like I belong. I never feel awkward or like I am walking on eggshells when I am in their house (I often feel this way with my current family, even though they are very hospitable; there is just this sense that I don’t belong). It was so relaxing and comforting to be around them, even if I did have to sit through a 2-hour mass on Christmas Eve(my first one ever!). Totally worth it!

Anyway, so the morning of Christmas eve we got to work making a billion (this might be a slight exaggeration…) tamales. We also made chile rellenos, because my host mom knows this is my favorite meal ever and that I wanted to learn how to make them (See why I love this family?? They know the importance of food in my life!). Then we just chilled until mass, which was at 9pm. After mass we came back to the house and built a bonfire and basically waited for midnight. At midnight everyone prayed to Jesus and said how grateful they were (as guest I got the honor of going first…awkward but nice…it felt a little like thanksgiving…and afterall, I had (and have) a lot to be grateful for; ie: I now have two wonderful families, my biological family who is amazing and my Guatemalan family, also quite wonderful).

After we said our prayers, we ate the delicious, delicious tamales!(Incidentally, I never want to see another tamale again...at least not until next Xmas) We also ate cookies, grapes, apples, roasted marshmallows and drank ponche, which is like a Guatemalan punch I guess, and is the official beverage for any fiesta here in Guatemala. ( I am not a huge fan since it has the dreaded papaya in it…but most people—both gringos and chapins— find it delicious. After this my 12 year old host nephew, Memo (Guillermo) was super excited to teach me how to “quemar cohetes” or shoot of fireworks. I was scared that I would lose a major appendage since I have never actually played with fireworks, being the law-abiding citizen that I am, but not wanting to disappoint my nephew I gave in…And let me just say in the states all of the fireworks we shot off would most definitely be illegal. Regardless, it was super fun, I eared the status “profesional” from Memo, and I still have all my fingers, toes, hands, and feet! So, all in all, I would say this was a very successful Christmas.

Cheers, Happy Holidays, and a very Happy New Year!! I am off to celebrate the New Year at Lake Atitlan!!

Talk to you all in 2011!