How to Have a Feliz Navidad…Chapin Style

Recipe for a Chapin (Guatemalan) Christmas:

-One billion tamales

-Ponche (a hot Guatemalan beverage that consists of pineapple, papaya, banana, raisins, cloves, cinnamon, water)

-Every type of firework you can imagine (and so very illegal in the United States!)

-Loud Music, preferably Banda or Marimba

-Mandatory prayer to baby Jesus from each family member

-2 hour mass (if not more…!)

-Angelitos (marshmallows)

-Bonfire in the house (yes, IN the house) or yard if you have one…

-Uvas (grapes)

-Manzanas (Apples)

-Nativity scene in your house (does not have to have people, can use muppets, dolls, or other figurines—Barney is especially popular—but a Baby Jesus figurine is mandatory)

and…voila!

For those of you who know me or were in my Peace Corps Spanish class, you will know that “en realidad, yo no celebro Navidad” (I don’t celebrate Christmas) (I said this to my Spanish teacher after he asked me what I did for Christmas like the first week of classes. The expression on his face after I said this was priceless…he looked like a 5 year old who was just told that there, indeed, is no Santa…Sorry to those of you reading this who previously believed in Santa…oops, my bad…)

However, this year I got to experience a very Guatemalan Xmas. My host family from my training town invited me to return to their home and celebrate Navidad with them, and I have to say it felt awesome to be so included in such an intimate family gathering. Let me first say that I love, love, LOVE my training town host family. I actually feel like they are my real family, which is a great feeling to have when you are so far away from home and your family. They are loving, warm, and gracious, and they treat me like I am one of their own and like I belong. I never feel awkward or like I am walking on eggshells when I am in their house (I often feel this way with my current family, even though they are very hospitable; there is just this sense that I don’t belong). It was so relaxing and comforting to be around them, even if I did have to sit through a 2-hour mass on Christmas Eve(my first one ever!). Totally worth it!

Anyway, so the morning of Christmas eve we got to work making a billion (this might be a slight exaggeration…) tamales. We also made chile rellenos, because my host mom knows this is my favorite meal ever and that I wanted to learn how to make them (See why I love this family?? They know the importance of food in my life!). Then we just chilled until mass, which was at 9pm. After mass we came back to the house and built a bonfire and basically waited for midnight. At midnight everyone prayed to Jesus and said how grateful they were (as guest I got the honor of going first…awkward but nice…it felt a little like thanksgiving…and afterall, I had (and have) a lot to be grateful for; ie: I now have two wonderful families, my biological family who is amazing and my Guatemalan family, also quite wonderful).

After we said our prayers, we ate the delicious, delicious tamales!(Incidentally, I never want to see another tamale again...at least not until next Xmas) We also ate cookies, grapes, apples, roasted marshmallows and drank ponche, which is like a Guatemalan punch I guess, and is the official beverage for any fiesta here in Guatemala. ( I am not a huge fan since it has the dreaded papaya in it…but most people—both gringos and chapins— find it delicious. After this my 12 year old host nephew, Memo (Guillermo) was super excited to teach me how to “quemar cohetes” or shoot of fireworks. I was scared that I would lose a major appendage since I have never actually played with fireworks, being the law-abiding citizen that I am, but not wanting to disappoint my nephew I gave in…And let me just say in the states all of the fireworks we shot off would most definitely be illegal. Regardless, it was super fun, I eared the status “profesional” from Memo, and I still have all my fingers, toes, hands, and feet! So, all in all, I would say this was a very successful Christmas.

Cheers, Happy Holidays, and a very Happy New Year!! I am off to celebrate the New Year at Lake Atitlan!!

Talk to you all in 2011!

Tell me lies, tell me sweet, sweet lies...

In my personal opinion, sometimes while living or working abroad, it is necessary to tell a white lie. Some of my Peace Corps friends are worried because they think I may be becoming a pathological liar, but to all of them I would like to defend my actions and say:

When a creepy guy in a camioneta keeps talking to you and 20 minutes later asks you whether or not you are married and you have about 4 more hours of sitting next to him on a bus, I think you have to lie and say that your fiancé is back in the states and yes, it is a challenge everyday being so far apart, but luckily he is very supportive of all your endeavors. He understands that this is something you need to accomplish before you get married and settle down (If I had a fiancé back in the US I am sure he would totally say this…so it is not really a lie, right?)

Also, religion here is huge. In Guatemala people seriously are either Catholic or Evangelical…While there is a very small minority that represents other religions, and even ancient Mayan beliefs, it is really not the norm and no one really says they are anything different. I made the mistake my first night in Guatemala of being honest about my religion. I told my first host family (I only lived with them for 2 nights) that I was Muslim…they stared back at me in abject horror, and were pretty much speechless…After that I told my next family (who I was with for 3 months of training) I was Protestant (This got tricky when they asked me detailed questions about being Protestant). So for this current host family (I have to stay with them my first 3 months at site), I told them I was Hindu…I figure I am Indian, I can figure it out…(and I do know enough about Hinduism to get by…). And since this is the family that called me Osama Bin Laden’s daughter, I am guessing I made a good decision not telling them my true religion…

I know some of you might be wondering if I am not suffering from sort of identity crisis or mental crisis, and becoming a pathological liar…And I know part of the Peace Corps mission is to inform host country nationals about the diversity in the US, but sometimes this just is not safe, especially with current perceptions of Islam around the world. (I’m just sayin’…) Actually, because religion is HUGE in this country, the Peace Corps advised us all to say we believed in God. Apparently, in the past volunteers said they didn’t believe in God, and host country nationals thought this meant these volunteers were devil-worshippers…because of this some of these volunteers had to leave their communities…I was just trying to avoid this but still educate about other religions…perhaps not my own…!

I have probably told more lies…oh, like I am allergic to papaya…I am not allergic to papaya, I just think it tastes like dung, and I have ever since I tried it as a little girl in India…But here in guatemala if someone offers you something and you don’t accept, it is very rude. I seriously can’t eat papaya…it makes me gag, so naturally, it is easier to say I am allergic. I don’t see anything wrong with this.

Lastly, if I were a pathological liar, I wouldn’t admit any of my lies here on this blog…or would I to fool you all? Hmmm….

And to my peace corps friends who claim I am a pathological liar, you know you are lying if you say you haven’t told one single white lie while living here in Guatemala….

Down the Rabbit Hole...

Last night, as I stood yet again in an awkward and uncomfortable space filled with Ex-Pats, Guatemalans and chuchos (dogs--don't ask why, it is guatemala, just embrace it!) all wandering a dimly lit cafe, I had an epiphany...

Living and working abroad, especially though the Peace Corps, is pretty much like in Alice in Wonderland when Alice goes down the rabbit hole...

Often times it is uncomfortable and awkward beyond description or even imagination...it is dark and mysterious, and you have no idea what lies on the other side...

But, as Peace Corps volunteers, we have entered the rabbit hole, chasing the bunny...or in my case, I have entered Guatemala chasing my end goal of successfully completing the Peace Corps, which to me means, making long-lasting relationships with Guatemalans, learning about their culture, sharing about my own culture, and hopefully completing a few projects related to my program (Municipal Development).

Anyway, on the other side of this rabbit hole are crazy adventures, many a strange encounter and uncomfortable situation, but amazing and invaluable life experiences that, though at times are hard to handle, I would not trade for anything...

And so I shall continue free-falling down the rabbit hole...and a free-fall is exactly what the Peace Corps feels like...hoping that I come out unscathed and perhaps even a bit wiser when I return from this journey...

Seek to Understand...

Be kind, for everyone you meet is fighting a hard battle...

~Plato

For those of you who don't know me very well, you might not know that before doing the Peace Corps or getting my MA, I was, in fact, "teaching for America." Although things did not go as I planned with Teach for America and I ended up resigning, I still learned a lot from the little time I did spend in that program, and while in the end it wasn't for me, I still think it is a great idea with a lot of potential (problems as well, but still great potential) and I met many amazing people in the short time I spent in TFA. I also learned a great deal from this experience...one useful phrase I learned was, "seek to understand"...

If we just take people's words and actions as they are without seeking to understand the true meaning behind these, or without trying to understand other people or other cultures, we will never really know that person, who they are, or what their culture is...we will never really know why they are the way they are or why they do and say the things they do. (kind of sounds like basic psychology but so easy to overlook) This little saying, "seek to understand" has come quite in handy during my time thus far in Guatemala. Sometimes, especially after many a frustrating event, I forget to seek to understand. However, sooner or later it always pops back into my mind.

For those of you following my blog, you will remember that I had been having some frustrating experiences throughout November. Right before Thanksgiving I had my first minor meltdown (I was actually quite proud of myself...it took me about 4 months before I cried or threw up in the Peace Corps! haha!). I was having a rough time both at home and at work. I felt little support from either end, and then, right before Thanksgiving, I got really sick. Dealing with racist comments, an absentee counterpart (The guatemalan who I am assigned to work with for 2 years, who is supposed to help me and be my partner), and feeling like death were all just too much for me to handle...

I broke down. I started crying and my host mom came into my room. She thought someone had died because I could not speak, nor could I stop sobbing hysterically, and quite loudly. I was a mess. I told her how I had been feeling and how I was sick, and she didn't say anything; she just gave me a big hug, and told me everything would be alright and that every problem had a solution. I think in that instant, she realized I was only human and was going through a lot and needed some support.

Needless to say, the racist comments have stopped. As for my counterpart, once she found out I was sick, she was actually very supportive and personable! We hugged for like the first time, and I think her walls have started to come down. I have learned a lot about her these past two weeks, and let's just say that she has her share of problems, as does my host mom and host family, in general. Neither she, nor my host mom have had the easiest of lives...and I am trying to understand their points of view and learn more about them.

As frustrated, sick, sad, homesick, fed up with living abroad, etc., as I get sometimes, I try to remember that we are all human and we are all batting through our own demons. Sometimes we get so caught up in our own problems that we can't understand any one else's situation; however, we are all connected by our humanity and the fact that we can empathize with one another, support one another, and learn from one another, and for me, this lesson, though simple, is one that helps me every day.